New Look 6000 - Muslin 2

 There has been some other nonsense afoot which has slowed me down a bit (some sewing, which I shall reveal at a later date, and some having to do with finally have a charged camera battery so I could get pictures and some totally unrelated) ...so here we finally have muslin #2.

I've more is less decided that the side gathers really don't work on the busty set.   I did an image search for New Look 6000, and frankly, it tends to look a lot better on women with smaller bustlines, which allow the gathers to skim their curves and still hug their waists.   While I'm used to doing full bust adjustments, and took in a dart on my right side (which I would have then moved to the left in another version) it just isn't enough.  There is enough ease around the waist to make me feel dumpy, and that is not a feeling I like.   While I know this pattern could be redrafted to better suit me, I'm just not interested enough to bother.   The non-gathered front looks lovely in all the versions I've seen, regardless of body type, and the majority of the adjustments I've made, such as fixing the back, taking in the center front, and width that needs to be added to the skirt, will all transfer easily, so, that is what I shall do.

What I did this time:
front:
1) took a dart out of the right side, which I intended to move to the left via this method
2) raised the shoulders even more
3) added more ease to the skirt via slash and spread
 back:
1)took in the center back even more
2)added ease to the skirt via slash and spread

What it accomplished:

front 2 & back 1:   After spending time looking at both the muslin and the pictures, I decided it wasn't actually too tight around the middle, it was just too long and too loose, causing the fabric to pool.   You can't quite tell as I am turned a bit and my arm is raised, but it does lay quite flat now.

front 3 and back 2:  I can sit down without it riding up.  an important feature in tighter dresses.

front 1 : I was hoping to get a better fit, but its not enough to fix everything....


The reason the waist seems to fit better in the previous version was the extended gather darts that went all the way across my body.   They worked, but stylistically, I did not like them.

New Look 6000 - Muslin 1

 Started muslining New Look 6000 this evening -- it comes together surprisingly fast.
Thus far I've:
1) raised the shoulders
2) taken in the top center back and top center front
3) added width to the the front skirt via slash and spread
4) deepened the back darts
5) extended the front gather darts

My plan for the next version (which will probably be this one with sections sewn in place) is to take in the top center back a bit more -- there is still too much ease around the shoulder blades.   Let the waist area out just a bit around the lower back, and increase the ease around the hips a bit, as sitting down would be a nice feature.  I also plan to lengthen the skirt, as I would like it to hit right below the knee after I hem.

I'm not really sure whats up with the waist gathers, but they look a lot nicer on the pattern envelope.

Emergency Jeans!

Come with me if you want to live!!!

Last night I tore my jeans right before going out.   I duly duct taped the hole, but this clearly wasn't a long term solution.  So rather than patching it, I decided to make a new pair.  (Obviously the most efficient solution.)    I'd cut them out a while ago and had never gotten around to sewing them up... So I can't claim a start to finish in one day, but eh.  I'm still pretty entertained.

I followed Peter's jeans sew-along which I found quite clear, although in a few places my pattern (traced off a RTW) didn't match his, such as having a separate fly.  However, I think it really sped the whole thing up quite a bit.   

This was also the first time I flat-felled anything,  and although it was a little wonky the first time around, I decided to just go with it ... until I noticed I'd sewed the yoke on backwards.  So.... yay for practice! 'Cause I got lots!   

Allison-eye-view  (AEV)

notice any issues?

snazzy double belt loops, also from AEV

 I did the pockets with extra eggplant cotton, and masochist that I am, I went for double belt loops.  Why, I cannot say.  I loathe making belt loops and sewing them on is a henius experience, more so then usual as this is kind of thick denim and my machine couldn't handle it.   I had to attach them by hand!  Teach me to try to make it look nifty.

 The gods of photography were not smiling upon me this evening, so proper photos when I see sunlight.   Even odds on managing that one within the week.  Stupid winter.

stealthy eggplants.

Guess who needs more storage space?

Lots of stuff today, so lets take it in chronological order....

Story The First:   Something Black!

After my endless fussing about what to wear for choir I ended up pulling out what we're going to call a refashion -- I took the lining out of a horrible 80s dress someone had given me to tear to shreds.   The thing already had an elasticized waist, so I just went with that, a cardigan I had and the belt I made forever ago.  It doesn't actually pull up to side -- it seems to have gotten caught on my hand, and this is the only picture I have.  Slowly but surely, I am becoming very fond of belts over sweaters.  What you can't see, because of the cropping, is the snazzy old organ I'm standing next to.   

Story The Second: Jomar!

I know I've mentioned this place before, but I don't think I shared pictures -- its a discount warehouse with remnants - but industrial scale, so you can find 10 yards if you want.   

Its the whole top story of this warehouse, and is an absolute blast.    The outside used to be there-is-no-way-in-hell-I-am-getting-out-of-the-car sketchy, but they painted and fixed a bit and now it seems friendlier.

They also have all manner of weird things, but unpredictably, as it depends what shipments they got in lately   By far the oddest thing I have ever found was dinosaur / paw print brocade.  Yes, BROCADE!!!!!!! not calico, not polar fleece, BROCADE.    I seriously considered getting some, but I just hated the pawprints.  They are not accurate dino tracks, which bugged me, and they.... well, made it cutsy/ugly.  So I passed by with great regret.

........

Story The Third:  What We Got

Mom's picks

Mine

Mom was in town for the concert, and demanded the trip to Jomar.  (I really am trying to be good about not getting things until I used up some of what I have, but its impossible when I step inside this place.)  In addition to the usual inexpensive fabrics, they were also unloading industrial size rolls of piping and twill tape for a dollar apiece....there are nearly 300 yards per roll.   We each ended up with a couple thousand in a variety of colors.   Mom ended up with boucle wool, a sheer and fancy piping for pillows.    I got a purple mystery bottom weight for pants, a stripped cotton for a dress, and a bright blue cotton for the NL6000 Fest.   I'd always intended to make it up in green, but they didn't have any I liked, and for $2 a yard I feel comfortable calling this the summer weight version and making another later on if I really like it.   (What am I talking about - if I like it I would make another in winter weight no matter what I spent on this one.  Silly me.)

Next up, after I finish the turquoise jacket, is fitting NL6000, which I have to say it making me more than a little nervous.  the front is all one piece, and the back is fit by a pair of darts!  I KNOW!  It freaks me out too.

Enough twill tape and piping to ENCIRCLE THE EARTH!!!!

pattern matching

V8685

day by day

On closer inspection of the day-by-day dress (this is all from peering at the picture) it appears to have raglan sleeves, making it closer to v8685.    Changing out the skirt and drafting a collar band shouldn't be too tough..... hmmmm.....   I'd also need to add the gathers in the back, but that's a matter of slash and spread...

There's nothing like winter really deciding to hit all at once to make me long for summer dresses.

The LBD I did not make

day by day from modcloth (for once I wrote down the name)

I'm singing in a concert on Friday, and the women are supposed to wear all black.   Last year I threw together a few things, all different shades and felt as awkward as could be.  So, of course, this year I decided I would make myself a dress... ha.    For no reason I can fathom,  I ended up choosing a black satin when they didn't have the kind of lace I wanted, and for the past week I've been trying to come up with a pattern that worked with the fabric, was appropriate for a concert,  and was simple enough that I could get it together in a couple of days.   (ha)  Anyhow, today I remembered this (points at the red dress in the corner)  If the cap sleeves were removed and the skirt became a-line rather than gathered, I figured it could work and would be pretty easy to draft, especially starting from McCalls 5292 ... just lengthing the bust piece and shortening the middrift - easy as anything  (and then I decided I want to curve the back neckline up into a strap, and of course do the same in the front.... )

M5292

Well, I got the neckline curving, but altering the lengths didn't go so well.   Its pretty close, but its just not flattering (thus no pictures.  the world did not need to see this) With a little more tinkering, I'm sure it will be fine, but since I only have today and tomorrow to work on it, and don't want to be up all night on Thursday, I am setting it aside for the moment.    Most frustrating, but less so that ruining perfectly good fabric.

Adding to the insanity, I recklessly joined Scruffy Badger's   New Look 6000 Fest.     I mean, thats not going to require a ton of fitting, or new fabric or a heck of a lot of time or anything.   I've decided not to take any responsibility for my actions, and lay all the blame at Winne's door.  (Although, full disclosure, it my head, you are 'Scruffs') Anyhow, when I implode and smoking chunks ricochet all over the internet, you will know why. *

(Remember that winter coat -- yeah...  ::BOOM::)  Also, for anyone who was wondering about thinsulate - its not hard to work with -- unless you want to tweak the fit.  It gets caught on EVERYTHING and bits fall off.  It also picks up dust like nobody's business.  I think its much better suited for unfitted things that it can just be popped into and enclosed - at this point there is a very real chance I am going to put it aside and switch to polar fleece, as I really do love messing with the fit -- so quilted vests, slippers, mittens, etc... may all be in my future.)

*I defy you to prove I cannot implode AND ricochet if I want to.

Zipper induced contemplations...

I went down to my trusty zipper source this afternoon, expecting to find an exact match for my lovely turquoise fleece - but alas they had none.  Half a dozen shades of blue, but none were particularly close -- so I got a couple in coordinating colors to see what worked, and I have to say I'm just not thrilled.   Once upon a time this pattern was V1040, a very fancy suit jacket pattern from Badgley Mischka.    So, I tried overlapping the front and playing with a notched collar, and I kind of think I like it.  (I'm also starting to come around on vests - but this was the only picture that wasn't fuzzy and was before I remembered to pin the sleeves back on.  But the more I look at, the more I like it as is...  most odd)

So, internet, thoughts on subject?   Costumey?  Fun?  What on earth does one wear with a turquoise vest?