There has been some other nonsense afoot which has slowed me down a bit (some sewing, which I shall reveal at a later date, and some having to do with finally have a charged camera battery so I could get pictures and some totally unrelated) ...so here we finally have muslin #2.
I've more is less decided that the side gathers really don't work on the busty set. I did an image search for New Look 6000, and frankly, it tends to look a lot better on women with smaller bustlines, which allow the gathers to skim their curves and still hug their waists. While I'm used to doing full bust adjustments, and took in a dart on my right side (which I would have then moved to the left in another version) it just isn't enough. There is enough ease around the waist to make me feel dumpy, and that is not a feeling I like. While I know this pattern could be redrafted to better suit me, I'm just not interested enough to bother. The non-gathered front looks lovely in all the versions I've seen, regardless of body type, and the majority of the adjustments I've made, such as fixing the back, taking in the center front, and width that needs to be added to the skirt, will all transfer easily, so, that is what I shall do.
What I did this time:
1) took a dart out of the right side, which I intended to move to the left via this method
2) raised the shoulders even more
3) added more ease to the skirt via slash and spread
1)took in the center back even more
2)added ease to the skirt via slash and spread
What it accomplished:
front 2 & back 1: After spending time looking at both the muslin and the pictures, I decided it wasn't actually too tight around the middle, it was just too long and too loose, causing the fabric to pool. You can't quite tell as I am turned a bit and my arm is raised, but it does lay quite flat now.
front 3 and back 2: I can sit down without it riding up. an important feature in tighter dresses.
front 1 : I was hoping to get a better fit, but its not enough to fix everything....
The reason the waist seems to fit better in the previous version was the extended gather darts that went all the way across my body. They worked, but stylistically, I did not like them.
It's so interesting to see your fitting process Allison. So much to learn... I'm going to link to this in case anyone wants to benefit from your experience if that's OK. Hope it's all coming along well. :-)ReplyDelete
I feel famous already!ReplyDelete