Saturday, September 29, 2012

Putting a zipper into swoop pockets

 I actually took a zillion pictures while making the pockets, but they didn't illustrate my points clearly enough, so, fun with paint!

Start with the swoop-over side of the pocket bag.   I didn't want the lining to show, so I used a fashion-fabric facing for the top part.   Where the facing connects to the pocketing (lining) sew in the zipper - as marked in the red line of the first image.   Iron everything so that the seam allowance is pointing up towards the top of the pocket.

with the zipper laying flat, place the second piece of pocketing (lining) so that its bottom edges match up with the first and the extra folds under the zipper back towards you, not in towards the pocket.  The point of all of this is to have the zipper lie flat against your body rather than parallel to the ground, poofing out the pocket and spoiling the line.   Sew as marked on the red line.   (Yes, I know the two bottom edges don't line up in the picture.  I'm showing it with depth so its easier to understand how all the bits come together.)   Anyhow, iron this seam so the the seam allowance is pointing down.

Then attach the swooped over side front piece, as shown with the red line.    You can actually do parts 2 & 3 in one, but the pictures weren't as clear.

Okay, that's nice, but what is a swoop pocket?   

<--  Its this.  I was never able to find an official name, so I made up my own.  Corrections are most welcome.

The idea is that you take a princess seam and around him level, swoop the center front over the side front and pop a pocket in underneath.

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