fitting the VPLL princess slip

While I wait for my gortex samples to wend their way across the country to me, I've decided to work on the VPLL princess slip.    While I got the test square to be the right size for the pattern print out, I think I chose the wrong paper as there was quite a bit chopped off in the margins.   Check out the text -- it ought to read 'Ladies Princess Slip'  instead, I have 'LadieNcess'

However, I didn't really feel like printing it all out again, so I decided to make it work.

Raw Fit

Upon measuring the new bust/waist/hips I found they were exactly right --- exactly right --- this never happens.  (never ever ever ever)  So I cut it out just as it was, pinned it up and tried it on.

Interesting fact -- the circumferences were correct, but their placement on my body was not. So... it wasn't terrible, but it wasn't right either.

Preliminary Alterations

I moved the waist and hip down about two inches (this is all with pins) and took fullness out of the high bust by pinching the excess together at the seam.   I didn't really want to cut this out again, so I avoided adding darts.   To get rid of the sagginess on the rear armscye I raise the shoulder strap diagonally, taking more fabric from the outer edge.

The front turned out well, but the button placket was all wonky....

Secondary Alterations

While beautiful, the placket was not only irritating during fitting, but not really a sensible option for a woman without a lady's maid to do up the buttons all the way up her back.   I popped in a zipper (I'm still trying to figure out something a bit more period appropriate, but we might have just accept this will be very anachronistic)

Anyhow, fussed a bit more with the pins and waist/hip placement and came out with a fit I'm quite happy with.