halloween!

We went as a black plague -- Greg was a doctor and I was the patient (victim / body / whatever) or.. more accurately, I got lazy and didn't feel like doing the 1400s giant horned hat, veil and gown I'd been planning and just made myself a shift instead and declared it a couples costume.

Greg's coat is a combination of a (highly modified) simplicity 2333 for the coat and simplicity 5840 for the hood.   In order to fit comfortably together, we removed the collar and lapels from the coat and changed it to have a center front opening.

He made his own mask -- it is composed of two layers of craft foam, a muslin backing and held together with rivets and waxed thread.   He used the lenses from welding goggles for the eyes and sneaky air holes on the bottom.

The pattern is his own design, based on a combination of tutorials online and images he's seen.   It was a fairly entertaining evening as he tried various ideas and wandered around with a giant cardboard beak.

My costume is actually a civil war era shift - simplicity 1139.   I'm aware its 400 years off - but, I had it (the pattern, not the shift) and I figured no one would actually notice.  (Besides -- how much did shifts really change?)  Anyhow, it is SUPER comfy... so I might see if I can dye it, wear it with a belt and work it into  my regular wardrobe.

Gatsby Dress

I went a little rogue on the design.

When I made up the original pattern muslin, it was a standard 20s fit - a giant sack, tied tight at the hips and floppy at the waist.  It was somewhat less than flattering.   So, while I could have fitted and fusses and made it work, I just didn't feel like it, and I knew no one else at the party was going for historical accuracy (except Greg - but he's a cheater*).  So - I took a pattern that already fitted in the bodice (VPLL princess slip)  and drafted the VPLL evening gown skirt onto it.

I had some extra fabric, that I attached around the collar to make it resemble the original cowl.   I left the floppy bit in the back - it ended up looking a bit more 30s than 20s (especially with the hair) but it worked.  I also snuck in a side seam zipper - 

I was in a odd mood when I started this dress, and couldn't be bothered to get off the couch - so I decided to do it entirely by hand.    The hem is a double set of running stitches with metallic thread which helps the draping show up and sparkle.

I added beading around the neckline and false cowl.   I got a variegated set.  lots more sparkly bits.  

 Happy New Year!

Miniature Muslin for VPLL 5941

My coat is done - but the weather is not cooperating - lots of rain, wind and clouds (good coat weather - lousy time for photography) so pictures will come eventually - but for now - on to the next!

VPLL 5941

We've been invited to a Great Gatsby themed new year's eve party - so clearly, I needed a new dress.  I decided to go with the  Fishtail Evening Gown from (I think) 1928.   Its a reprint of a vintage pattern with original instructions (or lack thereof) and a modern tutorial.    The tutorial is somewhat better, but still pretty confusing.   I couldn't even make a muslin, since I still couldn't tell how the skirt came together - so I decided to do a miniature version to save fabric while I sorted it out.

I promise, this is the front

I know it doesn't look like anything much - not the least because the scraps I used were fairly sturdy cotton - but it allowed me to sort out how the seams come together.   There are a couple on the side hip that never get mentioned that are massively confusing when laying out the pattern and much easier to see when one is actually manipulating the fabric.   

100% the back

 The back is pretty tricky, as sewing it together involves flipping it wrong side, right side, wrong side, right side, fold, tuck and sew.   However, with some time, it comes together fairly well (yes, I know the cotton doesn't look like anything but  wad of handkerchiefs - but just go with it.  This was an illuminating learning experience and I highly recommend it to anyone trying to figure out this pattern.)

skirt, under the back flare

 For anyone who is unfamiliar, the vintage pattern lending library is (for my purposes at least) a store carrying direct reproductions of original patterns, going from 1850 to 1959.   From what I understand, actual members can borrow patterns, but I don't do enough vintage for it to make sense to join - however, it is a lovely resource to have available.  (I've been mooning over this pattern for years and finally had a reason to get it.)

Halloween - a story in pictures

Halloween Cometh

inspiration

Had I found this slightly sooner, I could have copied her dress.....    live and learn.    

Anyhow - We're going monochrome, Greg is the jealous villain and I am the winsome young lass tied to the railroad tracks.    Everything we're wearing is going to be black, white or a shade of gray.    

The shots I have of my costume are all hideously unflattering and not going on the internet.    My outfit is a white eyelet overdress and a pale gray under dress with puffed sleeves.   The patterns are all being pulled an modified from modern stuff (I'll put in specific names when I have nice pictures to show what manner of crazy I pulled.)  

Greg's costume is rather more straightforward - and required a frock coat and vest.  (I may have decided he was going to wear a white shirt and black pants from his closet)   We used Simplicity 2895  - and when I say 'we' I actually mean it.   He chose all the fabrics used, helped cut out the patterns and the fabrics, did almost all the serging and a little of the actual pinning and sewing.    He was also coming up with plans for all the things he plans to make in the future.   I fully expect him to start doing his own projects over the next few months.

Other than the inevitable removing-four-inches-from-either-side that comes with anything for Greg - the coat was a pretty good fit right from the envelope.    It needed a little tuck behind the shoulder, but was otherwise good to go.  

the other main part of his outfit is going to be a gray paisley vest for some much needed gradation in this otherwise all black outfit.   Mine was having the same problem - except all white. I'm hoping the underdress (still but a twinkle in my eye) will sort things out.  (Also make the whole thing a little less ventilated...)  

RennFesting Stashbusting Costume of ..Getting There.....

Since moving, I've been forced to go through my stash, and have realized just how much fabric I have - despite some downsizing during the move.    As such, I've put myself on an all-fabric-fast-all-the-time diet (with the exception of halloween and presents for other people) until I work through a good hunk of things. (And have space to physically store more yardage....)

Anyhow - following my own rules, I made this costume entirely out of fabric I already had.   (Notions are new - but realistically, I can hoard them in a much smaller space, so it works out.)

didn't notice how squished the straps got....   hello interfacing.  you and I will become friends.

The corset/bodice/stays/pair-of-bodies/whatever-your-favorite-term is my own pattern and not at all historically accurate.   I just wanted something reasonably comfy that would be fun to wear and look the part.

It is constructed of three layers - brocade, denim and gaberdine, with channels sewn through all three layers and stiffened with poly boning.  As such, everything is quite firm - and as the pattern was traced off my body - pretty darn comfy for something of this sort.    My only complaint is that is is slightly too large and provides insufficient bust support.    I plan to take the front panel in an inch or so on each side, which will let me loosen up the laces all the way around.   (This is really just an aesthetics thing - all though the 7 sets of lacing is to allow me to adjust the fit as needed should my body change shape.)   (I want this one to last.)

The shirt is a big rectangle, with two other rectangle sewn on as sleeves and a neckline cut out.   I ended up sewing the gathers into the neckline 'cause I felt like it.

The skirt is a regular half-circle skirt.   Not really wide enough for the era - but not out of place in this one either.  I used my own half-circle skirt tutorial, cause I'm kind of a bum like that and didn't remember the equations.

Renn Fest Prep

It's that time of year again - I usually try and pretend I'm doing something sort of historically accurate - but this year, nothing doing.    This year, I'm screwing around.

The nonsense started with a masking tape double.  I didn't feel like fitting a corset properly, so I popped on a trashbag and made Greg run around me a zillion times and did the fitting the lazy way.

After I'd been extricated, I drew the shape I wanted, front and back,  cut them out (and folded down the bust to get the right, flat, "historical" shape, and blamo!   Corset pattern.   The boning will take up just enough space, so that with the lacing it will be skin tight, but not actually compressive.  

As of writing, the shirt is also finished (no pictures yet) and the skirt is in progress.   One of the pattern weights was very helpfully holding it down for me.

(Oddly enough, she is the 'helpful' one.   Goshu likes to pull the pins out...)

Downton Abbey Costume Exhibit at Winterthur

Yesterday I went to see the Downton Abbey costume exhibit currently being held at Winterthur (The old du Pont Estate in Delaware).    Excuse the quality of the photos - they had poor lighting (and technically, pictures were banned... so I didn't dare break out my flash.   But the guards absolutely saw me and didn't seem to care... so I just went with it.)

My overall impression is that the actors are REALLY short.   (as in all the costumes were on platforms and they were all (even the men's outfits) still shorter that me - and according to a docent, the mannequins were made to the measurements of each of the actors.)  (But then again, I went to comicon once, and "met" James Masters (who played Spike on Buffy, and he came up to my chin.   So... there are a lot of short actors.)

(For reference, I am 5'9") (But I also just looked up Hugh Bonneville's height, which is listed at 6'2" .. so I'm not sure what manner of shenanigans was going on with the costumes and mannequins.) (Additionally, it has been pointed out on more than one occasion that I may not be completely sane.  So, feel free to throw that one into the mix.)

Mary's white suit was one of my favorites -- I particularly liked the seaming, which I *think* is inside out french-seams. 

The trim around the collar and cuffs looks from far away to be threaded through the fabric, but from closer up seems to be a ribbon with matching pale stripes.

Not surprisingly, a lot of the costume pieces were like that - visually stunning from far away, but with innumerable imperfections close up, that the cameras won't capture.   (For example, one of the pockets on Lord Grantham's hacking jacket was sewn on with the wrong color thread)

On the other hand, there was a lot of fine details that I never noticed when watching the show - for example, all the beading on Edith's wedding dress.

And another favorite - the Egyptian print on Daisy's apron.   (Fun fact: Highclere castle - the real name of the building where they filmed Downton - was the home of The Earl of Carnarvon, who funded Howard Carter's expedition which found Tutankhamen tomb and ignited eypytomania in England.)

This probably isn't a surprise, but Sybil's harem pants have a satiny looking lining under the chiffon.

 And, finally, the detail that seems to have taken the most work with the least chance of being seen - the trim on Mary's engagement dress.

 What I thought was just plain gold trim on the scallops (I have to admit, I hate scallops) (not that anyone asked) is actually multi colored beaded flowers.    the picture above is from a poster on the staircase - the lighting by the engagement dress was "romantic" with screen projections of falling snow and the scene playing in the background.  All very lovely, but not beneficial to capturing the details.

All in all, I had a really good time there - but I will say the exhibit was a lot smaller than I'd anticipated.   There about 27 costumes there and about half were set up so  you could see their backs.     Its also important to remember that these are costumes, not real historical garments, so they don't really stand up to a close inspection.   (Not to say the aren't lovely -- but some things which look stunning on film are rather underwhelming in person) (The dress Mary wore to Sybil's wedding in particular -- there are a lot of weird pulls and the belt loops don't seem to have been sewn on correctly).

It took me about 40 minutes to go through the exhibit (The ticket window is for two hours) and afterwards we wandered around on the grounds of the estate for a while.  Winterthur has lovely gardens - if you come from any significant distance, be sure to plan for the spring or summer when everything will be in bloom. The garden and house are worth a visit.

As for just seeing the costume exhibit,  I'm close enough that we were able to go there an back in an afternoon, having both lunch and dinner in Philly on either side.   I don't know that its worth coming from much further away if you aren't going to see anything else as well.

~More on all the fancy evening wear in another post. ~