The beading continues

Don't mind me, beading onto a single layer of chiffon.  Very, very, very slowly.

The chiffon-only beading is happening in the center bust, due to the nature of the overlay, and all around the transition from the opaque section to the overlay.   It is... delicate work.   But I'm chugging along.

The plan is to have the top beading line mirror the area around my hips - with slightly variegated end points.

even more beading

The blizzard was fabulous.   Canceling plans stinks, but soooo much beading.

**sparkle**

more beading

I've put together the upper bodice - so the next week or two are all about beading.

beading

bead, bead, bead.

I'm sewing them on in sets of three, anchoring the third with a sort of back stitch (I don't know proper beading terminology).  This will be the midriff - beading will continue up the sheer part of the bodice and down to around my hips.

bits of progress

I've started in on the bodice - this is the (first draft of the) plan for the underlayer

Downton Abbey, season four

The current plan is for a beaded chiffon overlay, somewhat similar to this.  I am going to use the Anna dress for the upper bodice, to get the cap sleeves and boat-neck, but there will be an under-bust seam and discrete midriff.    (Also, the tiara, headband, sparkle-hat she's wearing?   I have that too.)  (Its kind of too much, but its also kind of amazing.  I was trying to find something similar to what Mary wore in her wedding - a wreath like look, and found the actual vendor for the above headpiece.  In the description, it is listed as 'as seen on Downton Abbey, season four, so off to google I went, in a giddy frenzy.  It is stupid sparkly in person.)

Jenny Packham wedding dress

My plan for the beading is a little closer to this -- more twisty branches than geometric patterns.

I would say it looks a lot more exciting in person, except after getting one of the five skirt panels beaded (quite a bit more than this) I decided it was all getting hidden in the drape, undid it, and am planning to do the beading on top of the gathers around my hips, so it shows.   The beading will continue up to the neckline, but avoid the skirt, so the chiffon can still billow about.

Not really dress related - but fun - Greg is practicing calligraphy, and if he is happy with the result, will be doing our invitations.

Gatsby Dress

I went a little rogue on the design.

When I made up the original pattern muslin, it was a standard 20s fit - a giant sack, tied tight at the hips and floppy at the waist.  It was somewhat less than flattering.   So, while I could have fitted and fusses and made it work, I just didn't feel like it, and I knew no one else at the party was going for historical accuracy (except Greg - but he's a cheater*).  So - I took a pattern that already fitted in the bodice (VPLL princess slip)  and drafted the VPLL evening gown skirt onto it.

I had some extra fabric, that I attached around the collar to make it resemble the original cowl.   I left the floppy bit in the back - it ended up looking a bit more 30s than 20s (especially with the hair) but it worked.  I also snuck in a side seam zipper - 

I was in a odd mood when I started this dress, and couldn't be bothered to get off the couch - so I decided to do it entirely by hand.    The hem is a double set of running stitches with metallic thread which helps the draping show up and sparkle.

I added beading around the neckline and false cowl.   I got a variegated set.  lots more sparkly bits.  

 Happy New Year!

Experiments with embellishment (also, Renn-Fest!)

in which I abandon historical accuracy to the wolves. *

Long and involved story short:   I usually go to the renaissance festival in late October. This year, plans changed and we went today - when the temperatures were in the mid 90s (also, humidity?  yeah. lots.)     So I figured between not having enough time to finish my massive tudor re-do and not wanting to die of heat exhaustion, I would join the legions of women who go as sort-of-not-quite-belly-dancers and generally look pretty darn comfortable.

I also decided to experiment with embellishment.    (sadly, not at all visible from a distance, as you can see below)  Both the vest and belt have free hand embroidery based on the Angie's Fall design from Alabama Chanin (but mucked about by me - I didn't trace anything, just sort of did what looked right at the time) I also added a bit of beading in the primary petals of each design -- I ran out of time for anything else)  I've never tried anything so loose and sketchy looking before, and both enjoyed the process and the result.   (i.e. you will be seeing more of this at some point)

The Good:   as comfortable as could be expected (it was reeeeaaallly hot**, and we were all sweaty greasy messes by the end.  But, as usual, it was renn-fest-tactular.)   (fun fact: some of the performers strap ice-packs under their costumes to handle the heat and the layers.)

The Bad:  black on black really doesn't show up well.   Next year! colors!   (However, given this was made of the scraps of an old ikea slip cover, I think we can give it a pass)

Best part of the day?   I was able to wander around for hours (and drive there and back) and my knee didn't bother me.   (I tore my meniscus in March, and this was a first for me.)  Its aching  bit now, but I think that's more psychosomatic than anything else.

Pattern details:
The vest is based off the bodice of simplicity 3673, with pointy bits added, the neckline lowered and the opening moved to the front.

The belt is from simplicity 2158 (which is actually a belly dance costume, shock of all shocks.  It's rare I use something as intended - I think I originally got it as a basis for a bathing suit.)

The skirt is the lining I pulled out on an 80's monstrosity and now use as general purpose I-need-a-black-skirt-and-don't-have-time-to-make-what-I-want type of thing.



*Short digression on Amanda being a hero and pulling it off despite the heat.   She is amazing and insane and knows a lot of the performers and their secrets for making it through.  Although, I'm pretty sure she was ice pack-free.  Clearly, superhuman.

** not to be confused with I-refuse-to-go-outside-and-turn-into-a-hermit-hot, which is around about 110. like earlier this summer.  (33 and 43, respectively, for you Celsius folks)

(yes. I know, lots of fuss.   but the weather was the main topic of conversation today, along with making sure everyone had enough water.   I think I'll try to go again in a month or so....)

I'm doing science and I'm still alive

some context for the title of the post

I am ALLLIIIIIIIIVEEEEEEEEE ALIIIVVVEEEEE   (and also overly dramatic - also mixing genres.  but you know. whatever.)   There actually hasn't been much going on here at the fixation, I just haven't much felt like sewing, and then when I did, it was black on black on black and I needed to wait for a good camera with a proper flash -- but such a beast has arrived!

Look!  couching!    after about three years I finally got my act together and made a choir dress (all black) but I decided it was boring, and as I'd used knit, I pulled out my Alamaba Chanin sewing and design book and learned how to embellish knits.  The idea is you take a piece of something (usually yarn, but in this case a rope of knit) and just sew it onto whatever you're working with, thus creating exciting 3-dness.   

detail!

The dress itself is another of the princess slips - but without lace or closure (yay knit!!!) and also currently without a hem or any kind of finishing -- so you can see it when its a bit further along.  (I mean, it's black and it's winter and daylight is scarce.  I'm only going outside in only this once.)  In addition to crazy shit like a hem, I plan to couching all along the hem (hah) area and around the neckline.  Couching-tastic.

In the interest of honesty and full disclosure, this was not in my stash, which means by the rules I have to add three more things to my stash  bust, putting me at 18 total - and I've only done five.   I know.  I think a new rules is I need to stop making up wacky challenges for myself and just have some normal self restraint when it comes to fabric.   But we shall see.

Anyhow, HI!   (also, I have actually been doing science.  also, because Jonathan Coulton is awesome, here is another song) (trust me, keep listening.)

aloha and so forth.  more in the future.